Jewelry making has a deep connection to time-honored techniques that have withstood centuries of innovation. One of these remarkable methods is lost wax casting, which remains integral to crafting intricate jewelry at Satomi Kawakita Jewelry. This ancient technique is not only deeply rooted in history but also brings a sense of artistry and precision to every piece. In this blog, we will explore the craft, its evolution, and how it’s still shaping modern jewelry making today.
A Deep Dive into Lost Wax Casting
Lost wax casting is a process that begins with creating a detailed wax model, which is later transformed into metal. It’s more than just a method; it’s a relationship between the artist and the material, where each step requires patience, skill, and a keen eye for detail. This technique allows for the creation of highly detailed designs and is ideal for crafting complex, sculptural, and delicate jewelry pieces.
1. Crafting the Design
The process begins with the creation of a detailed model in wax, meticulously hand carved by Satomi. Wax is an ideal medium for this stage because it can be easily manipulated to achieve a wide range of textures and details, from smooth, polished surfaces to intricate engravings. This initial phase is where Satomi's vision first begins to come to life.
2. Building the Shell
Once the wax model is complete, it’s encased in a heat-resistant material, typically a fine ceramic shell, which is built up in layers. This process requires patience and precision to ensure that the mold will capture every detail of the design. The shell must be durable enough to withstand the intense heat of the molten metal but also fine enough to preserve the delicate intricacies of the original wax model.
3. Removing the Wax – “The Lost Step”
The next critical phase in the lost wax casting process is burnout. The mold, now hardened, is heated in a kiln to temperatures high enough to melt away the wax. The wax flows out, leaving behind a cavity that mirrors the exact shape and details of the original model. This step is where the term "lost wax" comes from, as the wax is lost entirely, leaving only the mold to hold the design.
4. Casting the Metal
Once the wax is gone, the mold is heated again to prepare it for molten metal. Metals like 18K gold and platinum are carefully melted and poured into the mold, filling the cavity to form the raw casting. The metal takes on the shape of the original wax model, preserving the fine details of the design. This process requires expertise, as the metal must be poured at the perfect temperature to ensure it flows into all the intricate sections of the mold.
5. Bringing the Design to Life
Once the metal has cooled and solidified, the mold is broken away to reveal the jewelry in its raw form. It's at this stage where its final look begins to take shape: the raw casting is filed, sanded, shaped and polished. If stones are part of the design, they are carefully set by hand to add the final touch of beauty and brilliance.
At Satomi Kawakita Jewelry, every piece begins with intention and is brought to life through the hands of our small team in our Tribeca studio. We take deep pride in our craftsmanship, where attention to detail and quiet dedication shape everything we create.
We understand that jewelry is more than just adornment—it often marks a special milestone, memory, or connection. That’s why we approach each piece with care, knowing it may hold meaning for generations to come. From our hands to yours, we hope each piece carries the quiet beauty and intention with which it was made.